Curren at Hammonds

I snipped this clip out of the 1995 movie Good ‘N Plenty II.

I surfed this day at Hammonds – it was a big, epic winter day – and was on the beach when Curren showed up. He borrowed a board from a guy I went to high school with (Arrow). Check out the Black Flag sticker on it! He paddled out and caught just two waves. Thankfully, someone was filming!

Tom Curren grew up surfing Hammonds. I did, too. It was amazing to see him surf the spot. We were seriously in awe watching him out there. We had spent countless hours watching him in movies. Seeing him whip a tight cutback in person (at his/our home spot!) was a real highlight of my youth.

In recent surfing news, last weekend I surfed at Rincon, and my girlfriend filmed me on a wave! It’s a very small wave – not much to work with – but I got a few little turns in.


scabjarMy collaborator in, Scott, and our trusty graphic designer, Drew, recently put out an iOS app, iScab.

Pretty funny idea. You grow scabs, pick them, and place them in your scab jar. Picking scabs is a pretty satisfying activity. But I’m definitely more into the idea of possessing a virtual scab jar than a real one. Plus, I haven’t had a real scab in a while – probably because I don’t skateboard much these days.

Update! HuffPo reviewed it.