Curren at Hammonds

I snipped this clip out of the 1995 movie Good ‘N Plenty II.

I surfed this day at Hammonds – it was a big, epic winter day – and was on the beach when Curren showed up. He borrowed a board from a guy I went to high school with (Arrow). Check out the Black Flag sticker on it! He paddled out and caught just two waves. Thankfully, someone was filming!

Tom Curren grew up surfing Hammonds. I did, too. It was amazing to see him surf the spot. We were seriously in awe watching him out there. We had spent countless hours watching him in movies. Seeing him whip a tight cutback in person (at his/our home spot!) was a real highlight of my youth.

In recent surfing news, last weekend I surfed at Rincon, and my girlfriend filmed me on a wave! It’s a very small wave – not much to work with – but I got a few little turns in.

Surfing in Cayucos

We used the Thanksgiving time off to take a trip up to Central California. We stayed on the beach; the weather was perfect, and we had a fun time. I picked up a 6’8” single fin in San Luis Obispo. Here’s me on a couple waves at Cayucos Pier (leashless). My girlfriend shot this from the pier. Small waves, but it was still pretty fun.


I really like this part of Back to the Beach, where the surf punk Zed makes his entrance at the surf contest. The “YEA” with the board slipping and hitting him in the face! Brilliant.

I edited a video clip of this… but the sync is WAY off after uploading to youtube, plus it cut out the last 16 seconds…? Does youtube really suck this much? I haven’t used it a whole lot. Maybe it doesn’t like .mov files. I deleted the clip.

Jim Banks, Bali, circa 1980

Jim Banks, Bali, circa 1980. From Bali High.

Sorry, this gif is a little larger than usual.

I remember occasionally reading about Jim Banks in surf mags – usually a picture of him deep in a clean barrel, with a mention of how he retired from the pro circuit when still really young, and spent the rest of his years (decades) surfing in Indo.